Simple AF BTT Eddy
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR PRINTER - INSTALLING CUSTOM FIRMWARE IS A RISK
If you are looking for a way to support the project, and its entirely optional, this is my preferred approach. I am conducting a fundraiser to purchase a K1M printer, just so I can push out fixes and new features a bit faster, but also specifically test the K1M as well as the K1.
If you can't donate via go fund me directly, I have also added a kofi account.
Come on over to the pellcorp discord server, here is the invite https://discord.gg/2uGDzyJ3WX
The #simple-af-btteddy channel has been setup for anyone wanting support for btt eddy.
Please note if you are not using ZeroDotCmd side mount you must make post install config changes to btteddy.cfg and btteddy-k1.cfg or btteddy-k1m.cfg before homing your printer or doing a bed mesh! See probe installation for more details.
This guide assumes you have a K1, K1C or K1 Max and you are running stock creality firmware 1.3.3.5 or higher, or alternately you are using my prerooted firmware. Any other pre-rooted firmware is explicitly not supported and the installer.sh will validate this and refuse to proceed if you try to use it on different firmware.
There is an assumption that you are using a slicer like OrcaSlicer and Machine G-code like:
Machine start G-code
M104 S0 ; Stops OrcaSlicer from sending temp waits separately
M140 S0
START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
Machine end G-code
END_PRINT
On a K1M you can use the lidar cable either directly by repinning it, or via the pass through lidar port on the toolhead. However you cannot use the lidar port on the toolhead for K1, K1C or K1SE. The reason this does not work is because for Lidar on the K1M creality actually routes a completely separate USB cable from the mainboard.
TODO - provide more details
The configuration assumes you are using this mount from ZeroDotCmd: https://www.printables.com/model/1012524-btteddy-creality-k1-k1c-k1-max-mount which mounts where the lidar normally goes, and you can skip axis twist calibration as its not required.
Previously the recommended mount is my rear mount, I do not recommend this anymore, as it requires axis twist, but the mount is: https://www.printables.com/model/965667-wip-k1-btt-eddy-rear-mount-v4
You will need to enable the alternative config in btteddy.cfg and btteddy-k1.cfg or btteddy-k1m.cfg after installation.
If you want a cable bracket for stock then grab ZIMZ excellent cable bracket from here https://www.printables.com/model/783379-zimz-clippy-cartographer-cable-holder
Alternatively you could try this: https://www.printables.com/model/893452-cartographer-cable-guide-for-k1k1-max
It is assumed that you have flashed your eddy with the firmware from https://github.com/pellcorp/klipper/blob/master/fw/K1/btteddy.uf2 before starting the installation!!!
I have put together a guide for flashing the btt eddy here
The installation can only be performed on a printer which has been rooted and ssh granted
You need root access, if you are not already root, then follow this guide https://guilouz.github.io/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki/firmwares/install-and-update-rooted-firmware-k1/#enable-root-access
ZeroDotCmd (aka Zero on discord) has provided an excellent BTT Eddy installation video, you can find it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B17sS1klRxA
You must do a factory reset before running the installer.sh. Follow these steps to do a factory reset, which retains root access and skips the startup calibration checks:
wget --no-check-certificate https://raw.githubusercontent.com/pellcorp/creality/main/k1/services/S58factoryreset
chmod +x S58factoryreset
./S58factoryreset reset
IMPORTANT: It is really important you do not close the ssh session until you get the message Info: Factory reset was executed successfully, the printer will restart...:
git config --global http.sslVerify false
git clone https://github.com/pellcorp/creality.git /usr/data/pellcorp
sync
RPC Timeouts, try SSH Git Clone
mkdir -p /root/.ssh wget --no-check-certificate "https://raw.githubusercontent.com/pellcorp/creality/main/k1/ssh/git-ssh.sh" -O /root/git-ssh.sh chmod 777 /root/git-ssh.sh wget --no-check-certificate "https://raw.githubusercontent.com/pellcorp/creality/main/k1/ssh/pellcorp-identity" -O /root/.ssh/pellcorp-identity export GIT_SSH_IDENTITY=pellcorp export GIT_SSH=/root/git-ssh.sh git clone [email protected]:pellcorp/creality.git /usr/data/pellcorp cd /usr/data/pellcorp && git remote set-url origin https://github.com/pellcorp/creality.git && cd
If you have pellcorp-overrides in github but not stored locally, you need to recreate the /usr/data/pellcorp-overrides directory before running the installer.sh!
To run the script, you must specify the probe you want to use.
/usr/data/pellcorp/k1/installer.sh --install btteddy
RPC failed; curl 18 transfer closed
You might get this error:error: RPC failed; curl 18 transfer closed with outstanding read data remaining
fatal: the remote end hung up unexpectedly
fatal: early EOF
fatal: index-pack failed
Just rerun the installer.sh script (with the same probe argument), it will start from the stage that failed (most of the time this will be the Installing Klipper stage!)
You can also prefix the installer command with AF_GIT_CLONE=ssh to force git to clone via ssh, this will take a lot longer, but it will never time out, so its good in a pinch if you are getting repeated klipper repo clone failures.
At the end of the installer process if you get this message:
WARNING: MCU Firmware updates are pending you need to power cycle your printer!
It means that new MCU firmware updates need to be applied and this can only be done by power cycling the printer. After your printer is power cycled you can verify firmware was updated with the CHECK_FIRMWARE macro from Fluidd or Mainsail, if you see this message:
INFO: Your MCU Firmware is up to date!
Your printer MCU firmware was updated successfully. If you still see the MCU Firmware updates are pending you need to power cycle your printer! message after a power cycle, check the /tmp/mcu_update.log, you may be asked to provide this file on Discord if you need additional assistance, sometimes an additional power cycle can solve the problem, there is a very short window of time (15 seconds) in which the MCU firmware can be updated, so there is a chance it will work after an additional power cycle.
It is important to make sure you have a way to emergency factory reset the printer, if the worst happens. There is a macro in Simple AF called CHECK_USB_KEY that will wait for you to plug a USB key in and tell you if it was able to be successfully mounted. You should verify your USB key often just to make sure you have something if you need to unbrick your printer, simply type CHECK_USB_KEY or hit the button in Fluidd / Mainsail
If you get the message: INFO - USB Key was recognised and mounted correctly (/tmp/udisk/sda1), your USB is perfect to use for a factory reset. If you get no message at all before the script ends (after 60 seconds), your USB is defective. You can check the messages file in the logs section of your UI to get more details about why the usb key could not be mounted!
You may have to update the [mcu eddy] section in the btteddy.cfg with the correct btt eddy serial device address. If the installer was not able to determine the correct serial device, you will see a warning in the installer in that case: WARNING: There does not seem to be a btt eddy attached - skipping auto configuration
Open the btteddy.cfg in fluidd or mainsail and edit it there if needed.
Find the serial device for the btt eddy, from the command line:
ls /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_rp2040*
Then replace the [mcu eddy] line from btteddy.cfg:
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/XXX # change this based on your device
So it should then look something like:
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_rp2040_45503571288CBAF8-if00
NOTE: The /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_rp2040_45503571288CBAF8-if00 is just an example, you have to copy the serial value you got from running the ls /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_rp2040* command.
Restart klipper if you had to change the serial entry.
IMPORTANT: It is extremely important that you perform the following calibrations while the btt eddy is cool, if you calibrate the eddy hot, you will experience Error during homing z: Eddy current sensor error errors while homing and performing bed mesh if the btt is significantly cooler than it was while doing initial calibration.
Note: The BTTEDDY_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT, BTTEDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE and BTTEDDY_TEMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATE macros will turn on the auxiliary fan until the btt eddy temp is less than 30c before starting the actual calibration. If you are in a hot climate you may need to adjust the btteddy_macro.cfg variable_calibration_max_temp value to something higher than 30c if you can't get the btt eddy under 30c with the aux fan easily.
- Home XY (
G28 X Y) - Make sure nozzle is centred on bed
- Enable Force Move (via the button in the UI) to move your printer so that that eddy is about 20mm above the bed
- Run
BTTEDDY_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT - Run SAVE_CONFIG
Source: https://github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy?tab=readme-ov-file#2-drive-current-calibration
- Home X and Y (
G28 X Y) - Make sure nozzle is centred on bed
- Enable Force Move (via the button in the UI) to move your printer so that that the nozzle is about 2mm above the bed.
- Run
BTTEDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE(Triggers manual z offset calibration - paper test) Follow the Paper Test Method Upon completionSAVE_CONFIG
Note: The reason for the tip of nozzle being about 2mm above the bed is that as part of this calibration we will be temporarily saying that the position the nozzle is at right now is 0Z, so if you try to start your paper test when the nozzle is more than about 2mm above the bed, you might end up triggering a nozzle out of bounds error, if we have to jog the nozzle down more than 5mm for example.
WARNING: Do not use a metal feeler gauge for this step, it could interfere with calibration!!!
Source: https://github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy?tab=readme-ov-file#3-mapping-eddy-readings-to-nozzle-heights
- Home X and Y (
G28 X Y) - Make sure nozzle is centred on bed
- Enable Force Move (via the button in the UI) to move your printer so that that the nozzle is about 2mm above the bed
- Run
BTTEDDY_TEMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATEUpon completionSAVE_CONFIG
WARNING: Do not use a metal feeler gauge for this step, it could interfere with calibration!!!
Next it is highly recommended to perform axis twist compensation if you are using a rear mount before doing anything else, this will affect the quality of your bed mesh, so best to do it before.
- Home All (
G28) - Run
AXIS_TWIST_COMPENSATION_CALIBRATEThe calibration wizard will prompt you to measure the probe Z offset at a few points along the bed Upon completionSAVE_CONFIG
WARNING: Do not use a metal feeler gauge for this step, it could interfere with calibration!!!
Source: https://www.klipper3d.org/Axis_Twist_Compensation.html
For this first print you can go and do the tuning first (PID Tuning, etc) or you can go ahead and optimise your z_offset. Note you would think that the z_offset in [probe_eddy_current btt_eddy] would allow you to adjust the z offset for a nice first layer, but it seems like the z_offset does not work that way for btt eddy, so we are using the save-zoffset hack originally from Helper Script for btt eddy until such time as the z_offset does actually work correctly.
Now you can now run your first bed mesh:
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
Source: https://ballaswag.github.io/blog/creality-k1-btt-eddy-guide/ Source: https://github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy
You might need to adjust your reg_drive_current, for more details:
https://github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy?tab=readme-ov-file#sometimes-i-get-error-during-homing-probe-eddy-current-sensor-error
At least PID tuning (bed and extruder) and input shaping is required for acceptable printing. If you try and print after running the installer.sh and a power cycle but before any calibration you will most likely have horrendous quality, the worst you have ever seen on the k1. After PID tuning and input shaping you should see the same kind of quality as you get with stock k1 + input shaper fix.
You can use the QUICK_START Macro to automatically complete Bed and Nozzle PID Tuning and Input Shaping Automatically.
https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_checks.html?h=pid#calibrate-pid-settings
For example you might run these:
PID_CALIBRATE_BED BED_TEMP=65
PID_CALIBRATE_HOTEND HOTEND_TEMP=230
Note: The PID_CALIBRATE_BED and PID_CALIBRATE_HOTEND macros are located in the useful_macros.cfg file and they have defaults
values for BED_TEMP and HOTEND_TEMP so you can just run them by clicking on them if you want that same temperature.
There is no default configuration for input shaping so it is essentially disabled out of the box.
You can use the SHAPER_CALIBRATE macro to run input shaping, just be sure to SAVE CONFIG at the end, to choose the automatically selected shaper config, be aware though that the shaper chosen might be sub-optimal due to a slight difference in vibrations between two options. So you should probably review the output and potentially choose an alternative if it gives you higher recommended max acceleration for minimal increase in vibration.
https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html#input-shaper-auto-calibration
Note: The default value for pressure advance is set to: 0.04
Refer to https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Calibration for more calibrations
This is an excellent resource for all things 3d print tuning: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
See Updating
See Reinstalling