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Ender 3 V1
I have a 2018 era Ender 3 V1 which I have modded a lot
To avoid having to tram the bed every other print, need to replace the cheap springs. I originally had yellow springs, but ended up replacing with silicon spacers, I think either is a great option.
Before the bltouch, printing was a nightmare of glue and failure, bltouch had me enjoying my printer again, it got to the point where I would not even watch the first layer, it was that reliable.
I had so many issues with the original sheet and then creality borosilicate glass, I eventually went textured PEI, at the same time as a bltouch.
I originally had an 8 bit board, with custom marlin 1 (after installing a boot loader with an arduino), upgraded to the 4.2.7 with custom marlin 2.
I purchased the dual z kit at the same time as buying the original creality direct drive kit
As an OG ender 3 the y axis was a bit wobbly and I wanted to improve that, so I ended up purchasing this kit from aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004862196921.html
I actually had to enlarge the holes on the ender 3 bed plate to prevent binding, but after that its been nothing but awesome
I tweaked some alignment blocks to make it easier to install the rails
https://www.printables.com/model/725297-mgn12-alignment-block-for-2040
I don't really think this was worth the upgrade, certainly not as much as the y axis, which was substantial benefit, but I ended up installing it anyway, it actually created a lot of problems for me, especially when I had to try and make it work with the Sprite Extruder SE as well, I ended up having to design a few things.
So I used this kit: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0C7P3QHBY
I tweaked some alignment blocks to make it easier to install the rails
https://www.printables.com/model/735881-mgn12-alignment-block-for-2020
https://www.printables.com/model/734425-creality-ender-3-x-linear-rail-sprite-extruder-se-
For this model, I also had to create a new X Axis stepper motor cover and mount to move the limit switch over 5mm
I wanted to have my filament completely enclosed so as not to have any risk of absorbing moisture, so I created the PTFE mount onto the Sprite Extruder SE, works well:
https://www.printables.com/model/674686-sprite-extruder-se-ptfe-mount
Until I had a k1 and experienced the convenience of a run out sensor for using up bits of roles, I did not know what I was missing out on, so I purchased this sensor:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33053134385.html
I got the transparent version which made it a little easier to load filament, I mounted it inside my diy filament dry box, where I have a spool mount to keep filament dry while in use.
To be able to safely print high temp filaments, I swapped out for this: https://trianglelab.net/products/ender3-cr10-copper-alloy-bi-metal-heatbreak
The only thing is, they are a bit fragile and I ended up bending one of them, luckily I had a spare.
I originally started out with the creality direct drive: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B08H527P9P
But it was too heavy, I wanted something a lot more stream lined, so I ended up going with the Creality Sprite Extruder SE, I did not want to spend over $100 AUD on a full sprite extruder, as I had already purchased the triangle labs heat break.
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0CH3RGMP5
A rather pointless upgrade, but I got a Meanwell power support, figured it would be more reliable, probably a waste of money.
I ended up building a custom enclosure
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/146dxyj/my_3d_printer_encloser/ https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/16wsz2g/updates_to_my_enclosure/
For the enclosure I moved my electronics (excluding steppers) to underneath, I also added insulation (all I had was floating floor underlay, but it seems to do the trick), I can easily get to 50c inside the enclosure. The nice thing about my enclosure is when the door is closed and the exhaust fan covers are on, its sealed up to the point where there are no fumes from the abs, I can sit beside my printer and not be affected, certainly in earlier version of my enclosure before I added the enclosure and caulked the joints, I got headaches very quickly.
If I leave the printer to cool down the fumes seem to get absorbed into the walls and so I don't get a rush of fumes escaping when I open the door, I am planning to add a active charcoal filter to actually properly filter the fumes before opening the door, but i have not had a chance to do this as yet.
I used to print PLA and TPU with this enclosed printer, and when the doors are all closed (which is good for keeping the noise down and dust out, the enclosure would get to hot for PLA, so I added two exhaust fans which are controlled by a solenoid based on temp.
I know I could have controlled it via the RPI, temp sensor and a relay! I decided initially just to keep it simple, and so I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0BS6GXHFP
I had started with octoprint on a raspberry pi and was quite happy with it for many years, with custom compiled marlin on a Creality 4.2.7 board, octoprint is awesome.
I was looking for something new to try, so I finally took the plunge with klipper, I am glad I did, the screw tilt adjust is my favourite feature by far, making tramming of the ender 3 a pleasure.
I purchased this: https://uniqueprints.shop/shop/electronics-electrical/pcb/kusba-usb-adxl345-accelerometer-for-klipper
I originally tried to create my own using an arduino and cat 5 cable, no luck and a huge waste of time, the kusba with USB is just easier
I created a couple of mounts for the Sprite Extruder SE, started off with this one:
https://www.printables.com/model/657410-kusba-accelerometer-sprite-extruder-se-mount
I ended up then creating one which also works for the Ender 3 V3 SE:
https://www.printables.com/model/799562-ender-3-v3-se-kusba-accelerometer-mount
Simple AF Beacon EXPERIMENTAL
Simple AF Bltouch, CrTouch and 3dTouch
If you are looking for a way to support the project, and its entirely optional, this is my preferred approach. I am conducting a fundraiser to purchase a K1M printer, just so I can push out fixes and new features a bit faster, but also specifically test the K1M as well as the K1.
If you can't donate via go fund me directly, I have also added a kofi account.